DaGeek247

Usually they just disable all the hdmi ports except for cable and don’t bother to lock the final hdmi port to a specific device. So long as you have a long hdmi cable and nimble hands, it’s not too much effort to just pull out the cable hdmi and put in your own.

Directly to the clients from the already self-hosted server, exactly like all the other media hosting software does. Lmao.

shouldn’t Newegg of all places

Heads up; newegg has been shit for returns for about ten years now. Their monitor return policy in particular is notorious for being bad.

Probably for video streaming. If you’re only ever downloading large amounts of read-once content, you don’t actually need to save any of it.

Posted wrong, here’s my whole story:

I have a single AC damper that is fail-close, but was wired as always powered open by the people who put the AC unit into my house before I bought it. This would be fine, except I live near a meat packing plant, and sometimes the air outside stinks. I want to be able to close and open the damper based on various criteria I get from home assistant. (air quality, direction, speed, etc)

This is the AC damper unit: https://www.resideo.com/us/en/pro/products/air/forced-air-zoning/replacement-actuators/replacement-motor-for-eard-ventilation-damper-m847d-vent-u/

This is the shelly plus uni im trying to use: https://us.shelly.com/products/shelly-plus-uni

And the multimeter says the output power for the damper (which is powered by my AC unit) outputs 30V AC power.

I was able to power the shelly device by just plugging it into the AC power with Red to Red, and Black to Black. However, it turns out the Shelly device does not send that power out through its two switchable outputs. Those are called “dry circuits” apparently.

So my goal is to power the shelly device, the ac damper device, and have the shelly device ALSO switch the damper on and off. I know it’s possible, I just don’t know how.

So, the above diagram is my attempt to wire the shelly device into the setup. However, whenever I power the relay in the shelly device, the shelly device fries itself. So I’m looking for where I went wrong, and how to make it all work.

Give me a bit. I posted wrong, but it’s being written up now.

Don’t worry about how a video card was used. Unless it was handled by howtobasic, they’re gonna break long after they’re obsolete. You might worry about a bad firmware setup, but you avoid that by looking at the seller rating, not the video card.

there’s an argument to be made that a mining gpu is actually the better card to buy since they never went hot>cold>hot>cold (thus stressing the solder joints) like a regular user would do. But it’s just that; an argument. I have yet to find a well researched article on the effects of long-term gaming as compared to long term mining, but I can tell you that the breaking point for either is long after you would have kept the card in use, even second or third hand.

I know most of the less expensive used hardware is going to be server-shaped/rackmount. Don’t go for it unless you have a garage or shed that you can stuff them in. They put out jet-engine levels of noise and require god tier soundproofing in order to quiet them. The ones that are advertised as quiet are quiet as compared to other server hardware.

You can grab an epyc motherboard that is ATX and will do all you want, and can then move it to a rackmount later if you end up going that way.

The NVIDIA launch has been a bit of a paper one. I don’t expect the prices of anything else to adjust down, rather the 5090 may just end up adjusting itself up. This may change over time, but the next couple of months aren’t likely to have major deals worth holding out for.

Yeah, for actual trustworth longevity, having under your name and wallet really is the best way to do it.